|1. Knotweed - Turf iNfo||It’s not too early to think about control|
|2. Fungicide Program - Turf iNfo||Creating a fungicide program for the coming season|
|3. Vole damage/symptoms||Feeding runs beneath snow|
|Trees & Shrubs|
|4. How to identify ash trees||See Nebraska Forest Service pictorial guide|
|5. Oak wilt and mulch||Risk of spreading wilt in mulch is extremely low to zero|
|6. Squirrel damage||Bark stripping and twig clipping|
|7. Winter desiccation injury||Risk increases as temperatures warm in late winter|
|8. Winter watering||Beneficial if needed and done correctly|
|9. Pruning tips||Avoid structural issues with correct pruning of young trees|
|10. When to cut back shrub roses||Mid to late April is the best time|
|11. Powdery mildew prevention||Preventive control for plants with a history of infection|
|Fruits & Vegetables|
|12. Pruning fruit trees||Best done from late February through March|
|13. Peach leaf curl & plum pockets prevention||Dormant sprays must be applied before leaves begin to expand|
|14. Fruit & vegetable spray guides||Spray schedules for homeowners & commercial growers|
|15. Recommendations for starting garden transplants at home||Garden center references for customer questions|
|16. Nuisance insects indoors||Pesticides not recommended; exclusion is the best control|
|17. Siouxland Garden Show||March 24-25, Sioux City, Iowa|
|18. ProHort classes continuing||In-depth training for commercial horticulture professionals|
|19. NFS Tree Care Workshops||For public works employees, landscape managers, tree board volunteers, arborists, nursery and green industry professionals|
|20. International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) - Certified Arborist Exam Study Session||March 13, 1:00-4:00 p.m., Nebraska Extension, Douglas County Office|
1. Knotweed control - Prostrate knotweed is a summer annual weed; however, its seed breaks cold dormancy and germinates much earlier than other summer annual weeds. It is estimated that germination begins when soil temperatures are consistently 35 to 50 degrees Ffor approximately two months, and stops when soil temperatures exceed 50 degrees F. During most years in Nebraska, germination likely begins between late February and early March. With pre-emergence herbicides being the preferred chemical control method, application may need to begin soon in turf areas with knotweed issues. To help manage knotweed, core aerate to relieve compaction and improve drainage. For herbicide information, see link below.
It’s Not Too Early to Think About Knotweed Control, Nebraska Extension Turf iNfo
2. Fungicide control program - Fungicides are part of most turf management programs. In the January, 2017 Turf Info issue, Cole Thompson, Assistant Turfgrass professor at UNL, discusses 5-steps for creating a fungicide program for the coming season. Common active ingredients and example trade names are listed in the publication, but the list is not meant to be all-inclusive.
Creating a Fungicide Program, Nebraska Extension Turf iNfo
3. Vole damage - Prairie and meadow voles scar lawns by constructing surface runways (one to two inches wide) and clipping grass very close to the roots. Runways are most visible after snow melts. Small holes lead to underground runways or nesting areas. Vole damage to lawns will repair itself during spring growth. Voles are small, mouse-like rodents that exist throughout Nebraska. Their short, one inch, tails, stocky build and small eyes distinguish them from true mice.
Controlling Vole Damage, Nebraska Extension
4. Identifying ash trees - Many customers have questions about protecting their trees from emerald ash borer. But before talking about treatments, they first need to determine if their tree really is an ash. The Nebraska Forest Service has developed an excellent pictorial guide to aid the industry and clients in identifying ash.
Remember, treatment is not recommended until EAB is confirmed within 15 miles of a customer's location.
Ash Tree Identification Guide, Nebraska Forest Service
5. Oak wilt and mulch. With oak wilt currently found in counties along the Missouri river, questions have been asked if wood mulch from chipped oak trees placed around oak trees could spread the disease. A similar question relates to the use of compost in which infected oak wood was placed. The answer is the risk is extremely low to almost zero. The only disease known to possibly spread via wood mulch is verticillium wilt.
6. Squirrel damage - Squirrels may damage trees during winter and spring by stripping bark or clipping off twigs to access sap for moisture. They may also feed on tree buds. Occasionally, tree squirrels gnaw on decks, porches, fences, and other objects; most likely for marking territory. While trees can withstand quite a bit of squirrel damage, the wounds may lead to other issues or stress. If a tree needs protection, metal collars can be installed around the trunks of shade trees; or polybutene-based repellents may be applied to help reduce squirrel damage. To prevent tree damage from the repellent itself, be sure to follow label directions for application. For structural gnawing, use a physical barrier such as metal flashing. If this is not an option, commercial repellents may be effective. Apply the repellent on the marks and to a 12-inch radius around the gnawed area; and repeat as necessary.
7. Winter desiccation injury on evergreens occurs when green foliage loses moisture faster than it can be replaced by roots from frozen soil. Injury is typical on the south or southwest sides of a tree or shrub and fairly uniform, i.e. one inch of the tip of every needle has turned brown. Plants growing near pavement or the south side of light colored or brick homes are often most susceptible. Correct summer and fall watering is most important to preventing winter dessication. If needed, winter watering can be used. Only water when the soil is not frozen and air temperatures are above 40 degrees F. Apply water at mid-day so it has time to percolate into soil before colder nighttime temperatures and freezing may occur. The application of anti-transpirants, like Wilt-pruf, when air temperatures are above 45 degrees F. can help reduce dessication damage. Label directions need to be followed closely.
8. Winter watering of trees and shrubs will be beneficial this year if warm winter temperatures and a lack of precipitation continue. The priority for watering is young plants first - those planted in the last year and especially those planted this past fall, and then evergreens, especially those growing in exposed locations and near the south sides of buildings. When watering, the soil should not be frozen and air temperatures need to be above 45 degrees. Irrigation should take place early enough in the day for moisture to soak into the soil to avoid ice forming over or around plants overnight. Water just enough to moisten the soil six to eight inches deep. One or two irrigations during winter should suffice. If conditions remain warm and dry through winter and into spring, it will be critical to begin irrigation as soon as soils thaw this spring.
9. Pruning tips. With late February through March being the ideal time to prune shade trees, look at corrective pruning on younger trees, those planted in the last 3 to 10 years, to help avoid long term structural issues. Hire a certified arborist to prune larger trees. Corrective pruning includes removal of:
- a double leader,
- branches that are crisscrossing and rubbing against another branch or one that will eventually rub if left to grow larger,
- closely parallel branches that may eventually grow into one another,
- branches with very narrow forks that can lead to included bark and weakened branch attachment.
11. Powdery mildew prevention - The last two years many landscapes have experienced moderate to severe powdery mildew infestations on a variety of plants. Peonies and a variety of other plants were commonly affected. Powdery mildew infections are favored by extended periods of cool, wet spring conditions which increases humidity around plant's foliage. Fungal spores overwinter on dead pieces of last year's infected leaves.
Areas in landscapes that are shaded and have moderate temperatures are ideal for powdery mildew development. Avoid planting highly susceptible plants in these areas. Try to increase air circulation in these locations by pruning shrubs and trees. Limit nitrogen fertilizer applications to plants in these areas, too, since faster succulent plant growth is more easily infected by the powdery mildew fungi. Consider moving plants with a history of powdery mildew to locations with more sun and better air movement.
If good garden cleanup was not done in fall, then this spring before plants begin to grow rake and remove any plant debris from last season. This will reduce the number of fungal spores present to infect this year's plants. In woody plants that are frequently infected, like roses, prune out the disease growing points periodically during the growing season.
Severe powdery mildew infections, or landscapes with a frequent history of infection, will require the use of preventative fungicide applications to minimize the disease. Refer to the publication below for recommended products. Repeated applications will be necessary for season-long control, whenever weather conditions are favorable for infection.
Powdery Mildew on Landscape Plants, Nebraska Extension
12. Pruning fruit trees is best done from late February through March, before trees begin to break bud. This minimizes the potential for cold injury and trees heal wounds fastest when pruned at this time of year. Start with those trees that have higher levels of winter hardiness, including apple, pear, tart cherry and plum. Save sweet cherry, peach and apricot for last. Prune heavily on neglected trees and vigorous cultivars. The main purpose of fruit tree pruning is to 1) increase sunlight penetration of the tree's canopy, 2) remove less productive wood and 3) shape the crown into a strong efficient structure. Pruning increases fruit size, promotes uniform ripening, increases fruit sugar content and decreases pest problems due to better spray coverage and faster drying of the foliage after rain.
Occasional summer and fall pruning may be needed, but keep it to a minimum to avoid spreading fireblight and creating wounds that can be invaded by other diseases.
Make proper pruning cuts and use sharp pruning tools. Do not use pruning paints or wound dressings on pruning wounds. If a fruit tree sustains storm damage, consider removing the tree if over 50% of the trees branches need to be removed due to breakage.
Midwest Home Fruit Production Guide, Ohio State University Extension
13. Peach leaf curl & plum pockets are caused by Taphrina fungus. The most characteristic symptoms in peach are curling and crinkling of the leaves as they unfurl in spring. Usually, the entire leaf is affected, but sometimes only small areas are involved. In addition to curling, diseased leaves are thickened and often turn red or pink. As the season progresses, diseased leaves turn gray and appear powdery. This is the result of the fungal pathogen producing spores on the leaf surface. Eventually, the leaves turn yellow or brown and are prematurely cast. This disease may also occur on fruit, blossoms, and young twigs. Diseased fruits are distorted, swollen, and exhibit discolored surface areas. These areas are usually wrinkled and lack the normal peach fuzz. Infected fruits seldom remain on the tree until harvest. A severely disease tree does not yield well and is subject to winter injury.
Plum pockets, a disease caused by Taphrina communis, causes similar symptoms on plum leaves, while the plums become distorted and puffy. This disease is not considered a serious problem in most cultivated plums. Wild plums, however, are highly susceptible. If necessary, the same control procedures used to prevent peach leaf curl may be used to minimize plum pockets.
Dormant sprays of fungicides are effective controls if applied in late winter before buds begin to swell and when temperatures are above 40° F. These diseases cannot be controlled once leaves have started to expand. Use the fungicides ferbam, chlorothalonil (Daconil), Bordeaux or liquid lime-sulfur. Do not add oil to lime-sulfur or spray oil treatments for three weeks after application of lime-sulfur. Lime-sulfur should not be applied to trees when temperatures are below 45 or above 80 F. Follow recommended label rates for all commercial fungicides.
- Fruits Spray Schedules for Homeowners, University of Missouri Extension
- 2017 Midwest Fruit Pest Management Guide was developed by the Midwest Fruit Workers Group. This publication combines two longtime guides that have become familiar to countless growers: the annual Midwest Small Fruit and Grape Spray Guide and the annual Midwest Tree Fruit Spray Guide. Members of the Midwest Fruit Workers Group decided to combine these publications in order to address the needs of many producers who grow many different crops. It is our hope that this new combined publication will make it easier for producers to find the accurate information they need for managing pests in fruit crops. It is a joint publication of University of Arkansas, University of Illinois, Purdue Extension, Iowa State University, K-State Research and Extension, University of Kentucky, University of Minnesota, University of Missouri, Missouri State University, Nebraska Extension, Ohio State University, Oklahoma State University, West Virginia University and University of Wisconsin.
- 2017 Midwest Vegetable Production Guide for Commercial Growers - This annual guide is a summary of currently suggested vegetable varieties, seeding rates, fertilizer rates, weed control, insect control, and disease control measures for commercial growers.
15. Recommendations for starting garden transplants at home - Garden centers will be getting customer questions about how to start transplants at home. Depending on the plant species, most transplants should be started about 6 weeks prior to the expected outdoor planting date. To grow quality transplants, use a soilless potting mix and provide fairly high humidity, cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees F.) and 14 to 16 hours of bright light per day. Use a grow light or one cool white and one warm white fluorescent light, placed one to two inches from the plants. A little air movement, such as with a fan, can also lead to sturdier transplants.
Starting Garden Transplants at Home, Iowa State University Extension
Suggested Vegetable Varieties for the Home Garden, Iowa State University Extension
Planting and Harvesting Times for Garden Vegetables, Iowa State University Extension
16. Nuisance insects - With warmer than normal temperatures recently, common nuisance insects may becoming active indoors. Garden centers will be getting calls on controlling pests like boxelder bugs, millipedes, spiders and Asian lady beetles. These insects are harmless and don't warrant pesticide usage indoors. Recommend clientele simply vacuum up the insects and make note of the problem areas in the home. This summer homeowners should focus on caulking cracks, crevices and other conduits into the home to prevent future problems in spring or fall. Repair window screens and check that doors are tight fitting.
Pest Proofing, Nebraska Extension
18. ProHort classes are available to garden center employees, green industry professionals and anyone wanting to obtain in-depth information on landscaping, garden maintenance, and lawn care. A participant who attends all classes and passes a proficiency test will receive a certificate of completion of ProHort Education which can be displayed in their place of business. Pre-registration required by completing the 2017 ProHort Registration form. Class schedule.
- Nebraska Extension in Douglas-Sarpy Counties
- 8015 West Center Road 68124
- Entire Course: $440 which includes the price of the handbook. Additional employees from the same company are $385.
- Per-session: $60 one-day session. $30 per half-day session (please indicate morning or afternoon). This price does not include the handbook.
19. Nebraska Forest Service Tree Care Workshops - Develop specifically for public works employees, landscape managers, tree board volunteers, arborists, nursery and green industry professionals and landscape enthusiasts, these workshops cover emerging issues in tree and landscape care.
- February 29, Knight Museum, Alliance
- March 1, West Central Research and Extension Center, North Platte
- March 2, Lower Loup NRD Office, Ord
- March 3, Harmon Park Activity Center, Kearney
- March 7, UNL Agricultural Research Development Center, Mead
- March 21, Lifelong Learning Center, Norfolk
Cost is $45.00 per person, lunch included. Workshops are eligible for commercial arborist CEUs.
For more information, contact Graham Herbst, (402) 444-7875, or Amy Seiler, (308) 633-1173. Or send us an email for more information.
The Tree Care Workshops are a partnership between the Nebraska Forest Service and the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum.
20. International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) - Certified Arborist Exam Study Session
Date: March 13, 2017
Time: 1:00-4:00 p.m.
Location: Nebraska Extension, Douglas County Office, Room A
Address: 8015 West Center Road, Omaha, NE
IMPORANT- Before attending the study session, it is important that you read through the book and answer chapter questions to determine what areas you need to focus on. There will not be enough time to cover every chapter, and study sessions will cover topics that the group needs the most help in. ISA testing date will follow in early April.
RSVP required. For more information or to reserve your class space, contact Graham Herbst, 402-444-7875
Seasonal information for Nebraska's green industry professionals.
Trees & Shrubs
- Emerald Ash Borer Resources - EAB was confirmed in Omaha, NE 6/8/16 and Greenwood, NE 6/17/16. It is recommended homeowners wait to begin treating their ash trees until the insect is confirmed within 15 miles of their location.
- Basic EAB Information
- Proper Pruning Techniques
Fruits & Vegetables
Dry conditions are a frequent condition in Nebraska. Stay informed on current conditions, and public water utilities restricting water use. Visit UNL Drought Resources.